Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Babbo's Recipe Archive



Years ago I had the pleasure of dining at Babbo. It was a lovely meal with great food, wonderful friends, and delicious wine.

I haven't been back.

Not that I would refuse an invitation, it's just if I want a Mario Batali-restaurant experience, I find that Lupa serves those needs just fine. Lupa is just as delicious, easier to get into, and less expensive.

But that doesn't mean I never want a bit of Batali's Babbo in my belly. For that I turn to the Babbo website.

Granted, the website is a bit...cluttered, but the site is a treasure-trove of wonderful culinary information, from travel advice, to an ingredient-of-the-month, to other restaurants worth trying, and finally to the restaurant's archive of recipes.

Yes. Archive. A librarian's dream.

Babbo's recipe archive is exhaustive and addictive. A few weeks ago, I made their Black Spaghetti with Rock Shrimp and Spicy Soppressetta. I go weak for squid ink pasta, and the simplicity and uniqueness of the dish really got my attention. While the jalapeno salsa nearly burned my eyes out (3 cups of jalapenos?), the dish was predictably spicy, and wonderfully flavorful.

So rather than rely exclusively on Epicurious or Food TV for your online recipes, head over to Babbo.com, and order off the menu.

What other restaurants do you know of that post their recipes? I'd love to hear about them!

Monday, April 13, 2009

La Fonda del Sol





La Fonda del Sol (The Inn of the Sun) originally opened in 1960, and was the creation of Joseph Baum and his Restaurant Associates group. Located in the Time-Life Building on 50th Street and Sixth Avenue, Craig Claiborne called La Fonda del Sol "one of the most lavish Latin-American restaurants north of the border." He continued, "Should this restaurant become a Manhattan attraction to vie with the Empire State Building and the lions at the Public Library [that's us!], it will be well-deserved."

In 1960, four-course dinners at La Fonda cost $5.50, $6.50, or $7.50, depending on the food offerings chosen, and coffee was made table-side. Claiborne's review makes special note of the restaurant's cocktail options, including sangria -- apparently a relatively new libation to NYC restaurants at the time. He writes, "[...T]he management recommends a drink known as Sangria, which is really a wine punch made with citrus juices, Chilean wine, and soda. It is undoubtedly authentic but it would be more suited to warmer climates."

Beyond its culinary offerings, La Fonda was known for its creative and colorful design. The entire restaurant -- from its linens and dishes, to its menus and matchbooks -- was designed by Alexander Girard. Displays of Latin-American folk art, masks, and pottery wheels attracted Spanish-language school groups who apparently arrived en-masse for the $2.50 lunches. The restaurant closed in the early 1970s.

Just a few months ago, La Fonda del Sol re-opened in the Met-Life Building off Park Avenue with Josh DeChellis as head chef. From the photos online it displays nothing of the kitchy aesthetic that marked the restaurant's first incarnation, and while I haven't seen DeChellis' new bill of fare, I thought I'd present the 1960's La Fonda del Sol menu in its full glory.

Saturday, April 4, 2009

Fowl Weather




Yesterday was yuck. The weather was rainy, windy, and generally atrocious; my doctor's appointment ran late; the only food in my system was a croissant, two cups of coffee, and a slice of chocolate layer cake from Juniors. I had a headache and was (barely) functioning on very little sleep.

And then.... The clouds parted, the sun came out, and suddenly it was beautiful Friday evening and all was good in the world. My original dinner plan of chicken slowly braised in beer suddenly seemed like an inappropriate dish for a spring evening. I was all set to break out the limes and tequila, when crash! The rain began again, the wind howled, and the limes would have to wait a few more days. James Villas' French Country Kitchen came off the shelf for one more winter go-round.

Villas' chicken recipes are some of my favorites in the poultry canon. They're consistently delicious and not terribly time-consuming -- which is an important detail for a tired Friday night dinner with friends coming over. His recipe for chicken simmered in Riesling is one of my absolute favorites, and is on heavy rotation throughout the year. But chicken braised in beer seemed to be the perfect antidote to the wet wind outside, and required little more than what we already had on hand.

While the chicken cooked and filled the apartment with inviting smells, my boyfriend quickly cooked up Villas' country omelet with walnuts, potato, parsley and chives. Served over greens, it was a lovely and light first course, and will likely take its more rightful center stage in the months to come.


The moral of the story is that in foul weather, there is nothing better than a few good friends and a great chicken recipe to put you in a wonderfully fowl mood.

Chicken Braised in Beer
(from James Villas' French Country Kitchen)

2 T. butter
2 T. olive oil
1 4lb chicken, cut into serving pieces (we used thighs and drumsticks instead)
1 small onion, chopped
1 garlic clove, chopped
3 T. gin (we omitted this)
1 1/2 cups dark beer or ale
bouquet garni: 1/4 t. dried thyme, 1 bay leaf, and 2 parsley sprigs tied in cheesecloth
salt and pepper
3/4 lb. mushrooms, quartered
3 T. heavy cream (optional, but recommended)
2 T. parsley

In a large, heavy casserole, heat butter and oil. Salt and pepper the chicken on both sides and brown on all sides over moderate heat. Add the onion and garlic, stir and cook until lightly browned. Add the gin and ignite. Add the beer, bouquet garni, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer for 15 minutes. Add the mushrooms, cover, and simmer for 45 minutes or until chicken is tender.

Transfer the chicken and mushrooms to a heated platter and keep warm. Discard the bouquet garni from the casserole, add the cream, increase the heat, and reduce until the sauce thickens. Taste the sauce for seasoning, pour it over the chicken, and sprinkle with chopped parsley before serving.

Omelette Fermiere

5 T. butter
1/4 cup finely chopped potato
1/4 cup finely chopped country ham (we omitted this)
4 walnuts, coarsely chopped
2 T. minced parsley and chives
6 large eggs
pepper
1 T grated Gruyere cheese (we omitted this, but it would be welcome next time)

In a skillet, heat 2 T. of the butter. Add the potato, ham, and walnuts and saute over moderate heat for 5 minutes, stirring. Stir in the parsley and chives.

In a 10" omelet pan, heat the remaining butter. In a bowl, whisk together the eggs and pepper. Pour the eggs into the pan and stir with a fork over moderate heat just until the edges are set. Spoon the sauteed mixture quickly across the center and cook until the omelet is set but still very soft. Fold into thirds like a letter, and sprinkle cheese on top and serve.